Sound of music

Day 68 of the project,
on the train somewhere between Budapest and Ljubljana

Vienna, or Wien, as it is actually called in German, brings many superlatives to a traveler's lips. Gorgeous Baroque and Rococo architecture that has been immaculately maintained. Stunning museums that showcase incredible volumes of significant artwork. Delicious foods (hello Wiener schnitzel and sacher tort) in adorable cafes. Beer and wine galore. Opera and choirs in every theater.

However, for this traveler, my memory of Austria is anchored in music. I am not a classical music connoisseur, but there is something magical about the symphony. My timing in Vienna could not have been better; the annual classical music festival at the Grafenegg was coming to a close. The finale was definitely a special performance. Not only was the world-renowned Vienna philharmonic orchestra performing, but the guest conductor was the very famous Venezuelan Gustav Dudamel (on loan from the Los Angeles philharmonic). And the Grafenegg itself was an amazing draw--a beautiful castle with a brand new, state-of-the-art outdoor amphitheater about 40 minutes outside of Vienna. I was shocked it was not sold out.

Philharmonic orchestra just before intermission. Photo courtesy of Cody Christopher

Behind the name

Day 65 of the project, 
somewhere between Bratislava and Budapest

In the United States, Gbur is not a typical last name. Its unusual combination of consonants and lack of vowels trouble the tongues of most English speakers. There is usually the inevitable pause while someone decides how to vocalize those four letters. I am used to it...after all, I have had thirty years of corrections, spelling examples and references to Zsa Zsa and Ava.

But what is in a name? Language? Ethnicity? Geography? Social class? It can be some, all or none of these. Above all, a family name conveys a history. An artifact of those who came before you and the foundations of those who will come after you. Some people are well versed in the background of their names--ties back to castles, crests and pride. Other histories have been buried in the shadows of war, poverty and xenophobia.

Great expectations

Day 59 of the project,
somewhere between Prague and Vienna

To my beautiful San Francisco,

It is me again, your beloved expatriate. On yet another continent, I have met your older brother! Sure, Lisbon is not your official "sibling city" as defined by UNESCO or some other organization. But there are so many similarities. Like you, Lisbon has steep hills with stairs to match and sublime views from various miradoras. The trams and light rail rattle through his streets much like yours. Not to mention a (shorter) version of your Golden Gate Bridge...gleaming in the low light of sunset.

But unlike Valparaiso, my heart was not swayed. Lisbon is like an older, dignified but slightly shabby gentleman with the melancholy of someone who has lost so much. You can hear it in the fado sung in the streets late a night. You can see it in the political graffiti. The streets exude the passion of an empire whose colonial glory days are a distant memory in the harsh limelight of current economic struggles.

My way to St. James

Day 58 of the project, 
Prague, Czech Republic

Each person walks their own camino on the Way of St. James. Though there are definitely some distinct categories. A few dedicated Catholic souls walk the Camino for the original religious ritual. Some people simply want a holiday of walking the countryside. Others are looking for a fitness challenge. Many more are seeking spiritual (though not necessarily religious) guidance or insight. It can be all or none of these reasons.

My camino started as intrigue ten years ago during my study abroad in Alicante. A Spanish friend told me about an ancient pilgrimage route that Christians took to worship the remains of St. James. While it sounded like an adventure, my thoughts at the time were decidedly focused on Italy. Over the years, I've heard snippets from people and the media about the Camino de Santiago. Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez even made a movie about the Way. But ultimately I decided to undertake the Camino as a way of reconnecting with myself during my six month adventure. So if one wishes to classify my pilgrimage, it was a spiritual journey. A good short summation.