Full circle with gratitude

Day 183 of the project, 
en route from Los Angeles to Dallas

"Welcome to the United States. The local time in Los Angeles is 7:15am on Sunday, January 4..." The greeting from the Australian-accented flight attendant sounded more like exotic destination than my native soil. I braced myself for re-entry. The holidays in the U.S. wreak havoc upon airports; the combination of so many travelers, weather delays and chronic overbooking creates a unique chaos and can bring out the worst of our national traits. Maybe not warmest embrace from American society.

Holiday laughs in Oz

Day 174 of the project,
Christmas Day in Apollo Bay, Australia

"You're sitting like you're a baller at some fancy hotel. Like this is the Ritz Carlton of Apollo Bay instead of the YHA and you are drinking a vintage champagne instead of quadruple X lager."

Her eyebrow arched and pinky shot out from the gaudy yellow can, posing for a ridiculous Instagram post. It was contagious and within seconds, we were both giggling uncontrollably. Not quite our signature silent hyena laugh, but enough to make my eyes tear up a little. It was a good release after a long meandering day on Australia's Great Ocean Road.

Cheers to the solo ladies

Day 100 of the project, 
somewhere outside Port Elizabeth, South Africa

There can be many challenges in being a single female traveler. Security and acceptance of your solo status are obvious. Other issues are less obvious--when is the last time you had to figure out the word "tampon" in Hungarian? Or tried to explain the necessity of a 15-euro pedicure to a bewildered male bunk mate?

In spite of the nuisances, being a solo female traveler strengthens you beyond measure and opens your heart in a way you never thought possible. And perhaps the best reflection of that openness can be found in the relationships with other women.

White noise

Day 76 of the project, 
Vis, Croatia

"Your schedule has been very aggressive, Jenn. It makes me tired listening to it."

"It's not so bad. I see the highlights in every city. It is like the tapas version of Eastern Europe."

"You need to slow down."

Much as I hate to admit it, my German friend was right. For almost three full weeks, I had bounced from capital city to capital city without spending more than three full days in any given location. And while I had seen the major sights in six countries, it was starting to become white noise. The tipping point was when I purposefully avoided the art museum in Budapest...something I would never do in my ordinary traveling life. As a lovely Welsh acquaintance said so eloquently, "You need a vacation from your vacation."

So upon the advice from three different people hailing from three different countries, I chose the coastal delights of Croatia to slow down. I arrived in Split on an overnight train from Ljubljana, ready to fill the prescribed dose of tranquility. As the sun rose over the water, I leaned out the train window and allowed the salty air to fill my lungs. I was ready for some sunshine, bikinis, aquamarine water and beach bars. And unofficially, I was ready to face my new personal reality.

Great expectations

Day 59 of the project,
somewhere between Prague and Vienna

To my beautiful San Francisco,

It is me again, your beloved expatriate. On yet another continent, I have met your older brother! Sure, Lisbon is not your official "sibling city" as defined by UNESCO or some other organization. But there are so many similarities. Like you, Lisbon has steep hills with stairs to match and sublime views from various miradoras. The trams and light rail rattle through his streets much like yours. Not to mention a (shorter) version of your Golden Gate Bridge...gleaming in the low light of sunset.

But unlike Valparaiso, my heart was not swayed. Lisbon is like an older, dignified but slightly shabby gentleman with the melancholy of someone who has lost so much. You can hear it in the fado sung in the streets late a night. You can see it in the political graffiti. The streets exude the passion of an empire whose colonial glory days are a distant memory in the harsh limelight of current economic struggles.

My way to St. James

Day 58 of the project, 
Prague, Czech Republic

Each person walks their own camino on the Way of St. James. Though there are definitely some distinct categories. A few dedicated Catholic souls walk the Camino for the original religious ritual. Some people simply want a holiday of walking the countryside. Others are looking for a fitness challenge. Many more are seeking spiritual (though not necessarily religious) guidance or insight. It can be all or none of these reasons.

My camino started as intrigue ten years ago during my study abroad in Alicante. A Spanish friend told me about an ancient pilgrimage route that Christians took to worship the remains of St. James. While it sounded like an adventure, my thoughts at the time were decidedly focused on Italy. Over the years, I've heard snippets from people and the media about the Camino de Santiago. Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez even made a movie about the Way. But ultimately I decided to undertake the Camino as a way of reconnecting with myself during my six month adventure. So if one wishes to classify my pilgrimage, it was a spiritual journey. A good short summation.

Looking for tomorrow's rainbow

Dia 38 del proyecto, 
Bilbao, Espana

It is true, that old expression, "when it rains, it pours." After just five amazing days on the Camino del Norte to Santiago de Compostela, my journey hit a bump. Actually, it was more like a massive wall. I'm still processing the full ramifications of it.

The way that yesterday started gave no indication of the misery ahead. It was a gorgeous walk from the tiny pueblo of Meakaur to the beautiful metropolis of Bilbao. I walked in the company of a delightful Englishman who has spent the last nine years living and working in Barcelona. A good pacer and great company, Gary and I reached the albergue before it opened and checked in. I decided to head into town to check email and see the famous Guggenheim museum.

However, after two days of no internet, I arrived to discover that my wonderful feline companion of the last ten years, Don Gato, had taken a turn for the worst. He has been struggling with illness off and on for the last few months. But I was not expecting the end to arrive so soon. Don Gato woke up on Wednesday morning blind, unable to smell and hard of hearing. Not wanting him to suffer further from the almost certain strokes and/or seizures, the agonizing decision was made to euthanize him.

Volver

Dia 33 del proyecto, 
San Sebastián (Donostia), Espana 

A lot happens in a decade. Especially when ten years constitutes a third of your life. Yet stepping off the plane at Bajaras felt like stepping into a time warp. Some things have changed. Madrid has given its international terminal a much needed facelift and Aerolineas Iberia was more responsible with my luggage. Yet for a moment I was instantly 20 years old again, transported to a time when my vision of the world was reshaped.

For the 30th year project, I was determined to focus on new places. Why would one go back to old ones when there are constantly new destinations to be explored? So I followed the rule. Except when my heart wouldn't let me skip Spain.

The vast majority of American university students do not study abroad. For some, it is a financial limitation; for others, it is simply a lack of interest or does not fit into their degree program. I certainly had the financial limitations, but was unwilling to let money stop me. So off I went with student loans, a gigantic suitcase, limited Spanish capabilities and no experience traveling solo outside the States.

Weekend rituals

Dia 28 del proyecto,
Santiago de Chile

Regardless of geography, certain rituals are regularly practiced among friends....like ladies' night at the discotheques, Saturday morning yoga or a poker tournament. I miss my regular activities with my San Francisco friends, so when I was invited to join a group in their weekly "fuck-a-thon," I didn't hesitate.

Despite the name, this is not an orgy or anything remotely sexual. Every Sunday, a group of friends hailing from around the world arrive at Andres and Stephanie's apartment to watch movies that "fuck with your mind." Think Momento or The Shining or Inception. Typically the group starts in the early afternoon and continues well into the night with various movies. Popcorn, soda and chips are sustenance for the duration. Occasional stops are taken for bathroom breaks and refilling empty glasses. Discussion flows freely after each movie. It is great way to spend a gray afternoon.

Confesion del corazon

Dia 23 del proyecto
Valparaiso, Chile

To my beloved San Francisco,

I have missed you, my beautiful city on the bay. Your hills, fog, Victorian architecture, colorful streets and curious characters. I promised you my heart many years ago and you have faithfully kept it enamored.

My fair city, I have a confession to make. I have fallen in love with another city. It is not the first time my heart has been led astray. Barcelona captured my heart before you, with its hills and the sea. Architectural greats like Gaudi and artists like Miro. Friendly Catalonians who indulged my Spanish. Perhaps I should not be so surprised. These cities with their old, deep souls call out to me as I meander through their narrow streets. Rich stories emerge from a simple tag or worn cobblestones. 

It begins

Day 1 of the project

It's a weird sensation, getting out of the bed you've slept in more or less every day for the past six years and knowing you won't crawl back into it for six months. A strange combination of excitement, nerves, sleep deprivation, satisfaction and anticipation.

A close friend asked what I am thinking. My mind is actually quiet and calm; aside from a few calls prior to my departure, I have little else going through my head. Around 10pm last night it became clear that if it wasn't already done, it isn't going to get done. The big stuff is in place and I can survive without little things. Miraculously the only thing I have forgotten (so far) is a flashlight.

My heart, on the other hand, is racing and screaming with a million different emotions. Many teary and extremely personal goodbyes have been said over the last few weeks. The toughest were in the last 24 hours. Yet all of those goodbyes were said with love, affection and goodwill. I am beyond lucky to have so much and could not have made it to this point without those people. 

It is humbling though, to put this beginning into perspective. Millions of people each day pack their lives into a bag and begin a pilgrimage. The vast majority do so under duress or persecution, seeking safety and a better life. I am so unbelievably fortunate that mine is one of choice and personal enlightenment. It will be a constant reminder throughout my journey and will not be taken lightly. 

So without further ado, it is time to pick up my pack, say farewell to the U.S. and hello to my biggest adventure yet.

Pause

7 days until the project begins

It never ceases to amaze me how fast time goes. Two weeks ago I was working a full time job; seven days ago I was visiting two of the biggest and (arguably) best U.S. national parks. Today I sit on a plane back to San Francisco. In exactly one week I will board another plane bound for South America.

Yet there are clear points when just for a moment the clock seems to stop. It's as if fate is giving us a chance to appreciate the present before it rushes into the past. The last two weeks have given me a rather large dose of those pauses and it has taken a while to fully absorb them.